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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.